Aiguille du Midi–Arête des Cosmiques, from the Aiguille du Midi

Access

Leave the [A5] motorway at the Courmayeur exit and drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel. At the exit in France, follow the signs for Chamonix and the Aiguille du Midi cable car.

Introduction

A beautiful ridge with no objective hazards. The ascent can also be completed as a day trip by taking one of the first cable car cabins departing from Chamonix: the first journey is at 6.30 am (please note that in peak season there may already be a queue before 5 am). The two-day ascent is described here because, if you wish, you can combine this climb with one of the countless other feasible routes in the vicinity the following day, by staying overnight at the Refuge des Cosmiques and making the most of the convenience of the cable car.

Description

Day 1

From theAiguille du Midi (3,795 m), the upper station of the cable car from Chamonix, follow the signposts for the Vallée Blanche, exit the ice and rock tunnel and descend along the snowy, exposed ridge. Following the numerous tracks, you reach the glacier plateau on the right; continue hugging the base of the east face of theAiguille du Midi and the subsequent rocky outcrops, then continue uphill along a clear path to the Refuge des Cosmiques (0h45). The refuge is staffed and has 120 beds; booking is recommended (given the crowds) by calling 50544016.

Day 2

From the refuge, you reach theobvious and nearby Col du Midi (3532 m) and skirt round the lower rocks of the south-south-west ridge on the Vallée Blanche side, joining the ridge at the Col du Midi pass where it suddenly straightens out. Climb directly up the first step (II) to reach the first gendarme at an altitude of approximately 3,700 m.
Then follow the ridge line closely – initially snow-covered and later rocky – to the foot of a large vertical tower. Circumvent it from the west face, then follow the ridge until you reach the base of another rocky tower, which you bypass on the east face. The ridge then straightens out with a large step, which is climbed via a series of cracks on the west face (III). Continue along the ridge until you reach a prominent slab; climb over it (III) and, at its end, you reach the summit.